8/21/2023: Sultanahmet and Hagia Sophia

Istanbul, Turkey

Sultanahmet was recommended by just about every article and blog we could find naming where to stay in Istanbul. Located on the European side of the city, Sultanahmet is conveniently near the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, and Topkapi Palace. As you get closer to the water the streets get narrower and get a bit dirtier too. One car making a U-turn can cause 5 minutes of traffic and on multiple occasions we regularly saw locals casually throwing their trash on the ground without remorse. Touristy in nature, Sultanahmet didn’t feel dirty, but it clearly needed some TLC.

By the time we arrived, we weren’t feeling too well. J had been nursing some sort of cold and sore-throat and Savvy was about to come down with something big. We didn’t know what exactly it would be yet but it wasn’t good. Her ear infection wasn’t healing and would catch whatever J was incubating. We lasted out and about for half the day until we turned in. And we spent nearly all of the next 24 hours in bed.

The following evening we forced ourselves to make the short trek towards the historical monuments. The Blue Mosque was the closest and thus first on our list. The mosque had an amazing courtyard lined with beautiful arches connected by marble flooring and spires shooting up towards the sky in each corner.

We had dressed modestly and were able to enter the mosque with little hesitation. Savvy was required to add a scarf around her head and we took off our shoes before walking through the religious space. The ceilings were unbelievably tall. In the center there was a large dome that was flanked on all four slides by slightly smaller domes. Wooden chandeliers hung from all parts of the ceiling and were as wide as 40ft.

Next, we walked across the quad to Hagia Sophia. Knowing very little of what to look for in terms of differences from mosque to mosque, we found the experience at Hagia Sophia very similar to that of the Blue Mosque - even if it was 1,000 yrs older. There was a central domed ceiling connected by smaller domes and many chandeliers hanging from the ceiling. We were there at night so the ceiling was dark in contrast to the Blue Mosque that was was artificially lit. There was also a slight Christian influence in one of the halls we passed which had a picture of Mother Mary and baby Jesus.

The most interesting part of the night came afterwards. Having had traditional Ottoman food for the last few breakfasts and lunches, we were craving something different for dinner. But we just couldn’t find it! There was a popular area of restaurants near the historical structures that we thought would be a sure bet. We passed 16 restaurants in a row that served Ottoman food! Their menus differed by only one or two items and the salesperson out front was nearly pulling you into the restaurant if you showed the slightest interest. We eventually gave up and had a doner kebab and a falafel sandwich. Could not one person think to serve a different type of food? Could have been anything and we would’ve jumped on the opportunity.

P.S. When we left dinner we saw this jam packed trolley with so many people squished inside it, we just couldn’t believe it.

~ J